Clothing/nl

    From Nonbinary Wiki

    Mensen gebruiken kleding vaak als een manier om naar anderen te communiceren wat voor persoon zij zijn. Echter is gender identiteit anders dan gender expressie, waardoor de genderidentiteit van een persoon wel of niet kan samenhangen met wat voor kleding of kapsels zij dragen. Als iemand bijvoorbeeld graag kleding van de damesafdeling of vrouwelijke accessoires draagt, betekent dat niet noodzakelijkerwijs dat ze zich identificeren als een vrouw. Er is geen vaste stijl of richtlijnen voor non-binaire presentatie, vanwege de diversiteit aan identiteiten die onder deze term valt. Kledingassociaties en -beschrijvingen kunnen identiteitsspecifiek zijn, en kunnen per persoon verschillen. Een persoon die zich identificeert als een androgyn wil bijvoorbeeld niet noodzakelijkerwijs presenteren als androgyn. Sommige non-binaire mensen houden van kleding die geen vrouwelijke of mannelijke kenmerken geeft (genderneutrale mode). Andere non-binaire mensen houden van kleding waarin vrouwelijke en mannelijke kenmerken worden gecombineerd (gemengde gendermode). Weer andere non-binaire mensen dragen kleding die erg lijkt op conventionele dameskleding of conventionele herenkleding.

    Een opmerking over taal: Hoewel sommige non-binair-vriendelijke praat probeert dit soort taal niet te gebruiken, moet dit artikel de termen "dameskleding" en "herenkleding" gebruiken om te praten over de eigenschappen van deze categorieën zoals ze gewoonlijk worden verkocht.

    Advies voor iedereen[edit | edit source]

    Sommige mode-adviezen zijn nuttig voor alle mensen, ongeacht hun genderexpressie, genderidentiteit of geslacht toegewezen bij geboorte. Bijvoorbeeld hoe je kleding kiest die goed past en die je figuur accentueert. Voor transgender en non-binaire mensen kunnen de kosten van het veranderen van hun garderobe groot zijn. Het zou idealiter niet de grootste kostenpost moeten zijn, dus men moet nadenken over hoe het betaalbaar te maken is. Dit kan bijvoorbeeld gaan om het maken van een budget, het catalogiseren van een garderobe, het plannen van een minimalistische garderobe, tweedehands winkelen, en makkelijke manieren zoeken om kleding aan te passen en te repareren.

    Externe links

    Genderneutrale mode[edit | edit source]

    Gender-neutrale mode wordt ook wel "unisex" of "androgyne" mode genoemd. Genderneutrale esthetiek gaat over het vermijden van vrouwelijke markeringen en mannelijke markeringen. Een persoon van elke gender kan alles van deze esthetiek gebruiken zonder eruit te zien alsof ze gendermarkeringen door elkaar halen. De uitdaging is dat sommige kleding als genderneutraal wordt beschouwd maar er nog steeds een beetje misplaatst uit zou zien op de afdeling herenkleding. Omdat mannelijkheid in de westerse cultuur in belangrijke mate als standaard of ongemarkeerd beschouwt, en omdat de regels voor herenkleding mogelijk strenger zijn dan die voor vrouwen, wordt herenkleding onvermijdelijk (mis)benoemd als genderneutraal. Desalniettemin is het nog steeds mogelijk om enkele expliciete mannelijke markeringen te vermijden terwijl je een genderneutrale look nastreeft.

    Genderneutrale mode-elementen:

    • Kleuren en patronen. Neutrale kleuren zijn genderneutraal: wit, zwart, grijs en bruin. De meeste andere kleuren zijn ook prima, maar vermijd kleuren die vrouwelijke markereringen zijn, zoals roze, paars, magenta en pastelkleuren. Vermijd versieringen die kunnen worden gezien als vrouwelijke of mannelijke markeringen. Als gevolg hiervan kan een genderneutrale outfit er praktisch, sober of utilitair uitzien.
    • Bovenkleding. "Heren" truien met capuchon. Sommige truien, afhankelijk van de pasvorm. Overhemden met knopen. Topjes. Leren- of spijkerjacks. Zakelijke blazers. T-shirts zijn meestal verschillend gesneden voor herenkleding en dameskleding, maar ze kunnen alsnog door iedereen gedragen worden.
    • Beenmode. Spijkerbroeken. Overalls. Jumpsuits. Korte broeken zijn niet genderneutraal, omdat ze bij 'herenkleding' vaak veel langer zijn.
    • Schoeisel. Sneakers. Sommige stijlen van laarzen.
    • Haar en hoofddeksels Mogelijk krantenjongenspetten.
    • Accessoires. Genderneutrale dassen, halsdoeken, wintersjaals, korte hennepkettingen. Genderneutrale tassen zijn onder meer aktetassen, laptoptassen, heuptassen, rugzakken en grote draagtassen.

    Externe links


    Mixed-gender fashion[edit | edit source]

    The LGBT community often calls this "genderfuck," although some give it a gentler name, such as "genderplay."[1] In clothing, this gender expression combines traits from that which is conventionally considered "women's wear" with "men's wear," though the wearer can identify as any gender. (Gender expression isn't the same as gender identity.)

    Some ways to make this mixture:

    • Adding one accessory from a different gender expression. For example, an outfit that is conventional "men's wear," except for shoes (particularly heels), jewelry, bags, or tights from "women's wear." It can also mean a conventional "women's wear" outfit with the addition of a tie or practical shoes. Since it's only one accessory, the effect can be striking or subtle. This is a good option for people who want to experiment with mixed gender fashion. If a place seems unfriendly, and one feels unsafe, one needs only remove the accessory.
    • Adding one clothing article from a different expression. For example, a skirt.
    • Dividing the outfit between a conventionally feminine half and masculine half. This isn't everyday wear, and is usually only done in events such as stage performances, religious rituals, and weddings. The division may be vertical, in which case two tops may be folded up and pinned together, so the garments need not get cut up. The division may also be horizontal. In that case, the outfit may be a masculine hat and top, worn with a skirt and heels.
    • Combining aspects of personal grooming from more than one gender expression. For example, wearing both eye makeup and facial hair. To popular perception, some outfits are made mixed-gender by the mere presence of either makeup or facial hair with an outfit that is otherwise conventional "women's wear" or "men's wear." (Note, though, that about 40% of cisgender women have facial hair,[2] so society has only arbitrarily decided that this is not a feminine marker.)
    • Combining the form of one gender expression with the color, pattern, or texture of another. For example, redesigning an otherwise masculine article-- such as a rugged hiking boot, business suit, or even just a tie-- so that it has feminine markers such as pastels, florals, or cut-outs.

    Externe links

    Masculine fashion[edit | edit source]

    Some fashion is conventionally considered "men's wear," though the wearer need not identify as a man. For the reasons described above, much of gender-neutral and unisex fashion ends up being conventional men's wear. Also, some people who call themselves butch call it a strictly MOGII nonbinary gender identity, which is strongly linked with a masculine gender expression. One variation on butch gender expression is soft butch.

    In order to make men's wear fit well on their bodies, some wearers bind and/or pack.

    External links

    • This Pinterest board, Masculine gender expression in clothing, has pictures and advice about masculine fashion for people of all genders.
    • dapperQ: Transgressing men's fashion. A magazine. "dapperQ is the primer style and empowerment website for masculine presenting women and trans-identified individuals. Dubbed GQ for the 'unconventionally masculine,' dapperQ was among the first digital spaces to champion 'menswear' for those traditionally under-served by mainstream menswear media and designers."
    • Marimacho. A retailer. "Marimacho is a masculine clothing line for cis women and transmasculine bodies...we offer cis women, trans men and gender [variant] folks the same standards of fit and style available in mainstream menswear." Some retailers and other resources of masculine fashion specifically aren't for cisgender men.
    • Saint Harridan. A retailer. A lesbian-run store specializing in suits that have been adapted to better fit people who were assigned female at birth (AFAB).
    • Tomboy Tailors (site temporarily down). A retailer and tailor, specializing in men's wear tailored for AFAB people.

    Butch[edit | edit source]

    There are some differences between conventional men's fashion and butch fashion. Although butch expression is masculine, it doesn't follow or even subverts the rules of conventional men's wear, and has ways of flagging MOGII identity. Some transgender men-- and people of other genders who intend to pass as men-- are surprised to find that what they thought was masculine attire turned out to instead be butch. As a result of their butch attire, people tended to see them as masculine women rather than as men. Gabriel's web-site The FTM's Complete Illustrated Guide To Looking Like A Hot Dude talks about some of these differences.

    Dandy[edit | edit source]

    Called dandy, dapper, and so on, depending on the particular fashion movement and time period. Although this style uses the structure of men's wear, it has an overdressed, ornate quality, sometimes using traits more common in feminine fashion, so it is often called effeminate. Remember, the wearer can have any gender identity. When fancy masculine wear has been considered "men's wear," they've been considered dandies. When seen as "women's wear," it is often "men's wear" that has been slightly modified with decorative touches more characteristic of "women's wear," such as that seen on businesswomen in the 1980s. Either way, the style is much the same for women and men, so this is arguably a unisex fashion.

    This style is popular in the butch lesbian and genderqueer communities alike, who call it dandy or dapper. The main trait of that style is that they wear a bow-tie, which is less commonly worn in conventional men's wear.

    External links.

    • This Pinterest board, Dandy gender expression in clothing, shows pictures of many outfits and clothing articles of this style.
    • See also the links for the masculine section, above.

    Feminine fashion[edit | edit source]

    Some nonbinary people adopt conventional women's wear as a political statement, to challenge the idea that androgyny and gender-neutrality looks masculine. Also note that some people who call themselves femme say it is a MOGII nonbinary gender identity, which is strongly linked with a feminine gender expression. Some MOGII variations on feminine gender expression are high femme, low femme, and hard femme.

    In order to make women's wear fit well on their bodies, some wearers pad and/or tuck.

    External links

    Femme[edit | edit source]

    There are some differences between conventional women's fashion and femme fashion. Although the latter is a feminine gender expression, and it uses conventional women's wear, it also involves rejecting conventions and flagging a MOGII identity.

    Verschil tussen dames- en herenkleding[edit | edit source]

    When people have a wardrobe of women's wear and men's wear, regardless of whether it's always like that or they are in the middle of a gender transition, they discover many small differences between these kinds of fashion that they never noticed before. It's important to know about these, because some of these differences can make it difficult to mix clothing, or to pass as the gender that one intends. These differences can be summarized as creativity vs. conformity, beauty vs. practicality, and some other differences.

    Creativiteit vs. conformiteit

    Women's wear has more diversity of form, allowing for more creativity in personal expression. For example, the wild variety of different kinds of dresses, each with a dramatically different silhouette. Men's wear outfits look very similar to one another at a glance, with space for personal expression limited to tiny and subtle details. For example, the shape of lapels or color of tie. Men's wear can seem relatively drab and boring, but this simplicity and conformity is an intentional feature, in order to give the impression that one has good composure, and isn't trying to attract attention. Because this attitude is so appropriate for business settings, women's business suits have taken after this.

    Schoonheid versus uitvoerbaarheid

    Women's wear is constructed to flatter one's body shape, whereas men's wear is constructed to be practical. As a result, the bad side is that women's wear can be inconvenient. (The exception is in sport and camping gear, where women's wear often matches the practicality and durability of men's.) Some examples of this kind of difference:

    • Men's wear often has big pockets. However, having and using pockets can make one's figure look bulky, and one's clothes look lumpy. Women's wear gives up pockets in order to make one's figure have smooth lines. Sometimes this means no pockets at all, or fake pockets. When women's wear has pockets at all, they're half or less the size of pockets in men's wear, and sometimes aren't usable. Because of this, people in women's wear carry their wallet, keys, and other things in handbags. People in men's wear carry their wallet, keys, and other things in their pockets, with no need for a handbag.
    • Men's wear tends to have a thicker and warmer construction than the equivalent garments in women's wear. For example, men's sweaters are as warm as they need to be, even if that means they're bulky, but many sweaters for women are as thin as tissue paper. One easily gets too hot in men's, and too cold in women's. This may be part of why men's body language is expansive, spreading limbs out wide and gesturing outward, whereas women's body language is constrictive, keeping limbs close together and gesturing inward. It may be no coincidence that this is also exactly how people move when they are too hot or too cold, respectively.
    • Men's wear has a durable construction, made to last for many years. Although there are some odd fads, generally men's wear has a classic look that is unlikely to go too far out of style within twenty years. In contrast, most women's wear is made to last only as long as the fashion season. Their construction and details look nice, but are too flimsy to last through many launderings. This is an intentional feature: it anticipates that the wearer won't want to keep wearing last season, makes way for new fashions, and sacrificing durability allows for more space to experiment with creative expression.

    Andere verschillen

    • Women's wear and men's wear have buttons on opposite sides. There was a reason for this, once, but it hasn't been relevant for over a hundred years.
    • Trouser sizes are labeled differently. Those for men are labeled with waist size and inseam. Those for women are labeled with a single number that isn't an actual measurement, and which no company uses the same as another.

    Fluid fashion[edit | edit source]

    The ideal solution for the expression of genderfluid people would be fashion that is so flexible that it could be changed from a feminine, masculine, or neutral signifier at any time of the day, possibly without even needing the privacy of a restroom to change. Such clothing is rare, and would be fruitful for clothing designers to explore. List examples here.

    • Some bags have their straps on clips. By fastening the straps differently, you can change the same bag from a handbag or shoulder bag to a backpack. For example, this multifunction bag, or some bags made by va.de.neuvo.
    • Hats and caps are generally seen as gender-neutral, and if the wearer has hair that flows down to their shoulders, they can tuck their hair into their headwear for a more masculine appearance, and vice versa.

    External links


    Zie ook[edit | edit source]

    Externe Links[edit | edit source]


    Bronnen[edit | edit source]

    1. ↑ Raphael Carter, "Angel's Dictionary." 1996-07-14. [1]
    2. ↑ Julie Bindel, "Women: embrace your facial hair!" The Guardian. August 20, 2010. http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/20/women-facial-hair
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